The Forbidden Kingdom of Nepal (Upper Mustang)

Morning flight to Jomsom. We start with a 3-hour hike to Kagbeni (2895 m). This ancient Tibetan-influenced settlement surrounded by a patchwork of fields and fruit trees will take you back in time.

At the northern most limit of Kagbeni is the police checkpoint where we take our first steps into the previously forbidden area of Upper Mustang. The trail ascends sharply to a Chorten, (Tibetan prayer wheel) from where we see beautiful views of Kagbeni with Nilgiri as a backdrop. We follow along the east bank of the Kali Gandaki, climbing and descending until we reach the sparsely vegetated plateau and the village of Tangbe, (3,100m) our lunch stop. We continue our trail to Chhuksang (3050 m) where we can see ruins of castles littering the hilltops and cave dwellings across the river. The canyon walls are eroded into spectacular organ pipe formations. Hiking hours: 6-7

We continue to follow the riverbank where we can see many caves amongst the cliff walls. A steep climb out of the valley leads us to the village of Chele. We continue our climb until we reach the Chotare Lopcha Pass (3625 m) where excellent views are to be had. We then follow the contour of the mountain to Samar (3700m) named after the red outcrop of rocks. We set up camp at this lovely village surrounded by Poplar trees and rice fields. Hiking hours: 6

From camp we descend to cross the stream before climbing to the pass, Samar La (4000 m). The trail continues to take us over the mountain tops; Daw a Lapcha Pass (3800m), Lhakpa – La (3680m) until the village of Ghiling (3510 m) is visible below. Ghiling was once an important village for the traders on route from Tibet. Hiking hours: 7

After a steep morning climb up to the NYT La pass, we descend to a fork in the trail where we head to the village of Ghemi. We continue our trail on to Tsarang (3650m), a Dzong which formerly housed a king of the region. Tsarang is situated on the edge of a beautiful cliff. Hiking hours:7

After our initial descent, the trail follows a gentle but continuous climb with increasingly beautiful views. High sandstone cliffs with numerous caves flank our east and the Mustang Himal peaks are visible stretching towards Tibet. From the Lo-Manthang Pass (3950m) we first see the village of Namgyal, and then Lo-Manthang itself, the only walled village on this route. It contains the Royal Palace of the King of Mustang and will be our base camp for the next 3 nights. Hiking hours: 5

Lo-Manthang means the “plains of prayer.” The city is a walled fortress of old times with houses tightly packed behind the walls, and a maze of narrow alleys to explore. The king’s palace, in which he still resides, is easily noticeable, as it is the largest residence in Lo-Manthang. It is also possible to visit 3 monasteries – the Chamba Lakhang which houses the massive 45 foot statue of Maitreya (the future Buddha), the Thugchen Lakhang with several large images of Sakyamuki, Avolokitsevara and Maitreya and Chodi of the Sakya Sect which has several monks in residence and offers us the chance to join in prayer and chanting. Half way to the King’s summer palace in Namgyal, is the Namgyal Monastery. It is the largest monastery in Mustang and is perched on a hillside above the village. Its massive walls are painted in scripts of grey, white and yellow. There is a large courtyard surrounded by galleries and the main hall contains a large altar with splendid statues, images and Thankas hanging from the pillars. Lo-Manthang has a post office, health post; police check post and radio communication with Jomsom and Kathamndu.

Day hike (or pony trek) to the villages of Garphu and Nyphu north of Lo-Manthang. There are some interesting cave monasteries and numerous caves with dwellings inside. On the way back, a hike up to the ruins of Ketcher Dzong is recommended for wide panoramic views of the valleys to the north and south. Hiking hours day trip: 7

We slowly we continue the trail steadily climbs to a pass (4480 m) marked, as most, by a cairn. From here we get our last glimpse of Lo-Manthang. We then follow up a desolate valley with good mountain views, passing abandoned fields and a few ruins. Our trail ascends steeply across a ridge to the high point of today’s trek at (4595 m). We then descend to the Canyon valley, cross the fast flowing stream and a quick ascent takes us to Lo Gekar where we will have lunch. After lunch we can visit the Gomba surrounded by colorful prayer wheels with snowy peaks in the distance and 2 hours further walk reach us to the Dhakmar, beautiful place to camp in a red crag. Hiking hours: 7

Today we follow the trail along to Ghiling, where we rejoin the main trail. Hiking hours: 5

Today’s trail offers a particularly scenic descent with snow peaks in the distance – gentle at first and then steeply down to a spectacularly eroded gully and the village of Samar. Hiking hours: 6

Today is a reverse trek of Day 3. Hiking hours: 6

We retrace our steps from Tangwe to Kagbeni where we will cross back over into Lower Mustang. * Optional to trek to Muktinath

After a short morning walk of 3 hours the remainder of the day is given to recuperating at a hotel in Jomsom for the afternoon.

A wonderful day relaxing and recuperating with soothing views of Fewa lake and our tales of the high mountains. * optional to trek back to Pokhara